The literal translation is “the-trip-first-road.” What we’re trying to say is “the first road trip”! This is why learning Italian is not simple. The sentence structure is very different from what our English speaking brains are used to.
Wednesday evening we took a look at the calendar and realized that time was flying by and there were still a number of places we wanted to explore in northern Italy. The result? “Prima” Road Trip. We pulled out the road maps and travel books and did some quick planning so we would know where to go in the morning. We planned to head east from Lake Como, to see Bergamo, Verona, and then north into the Dolomite Mountains.
Thursday dawned sunny and gorgeous. Our decision to take a “back road” to Bergamo might not have been the best, and we definitely saw a side of Italian real estate that was not in the guide books: industrial, modern and often messy. But the first stop, Bergamo, was worth the effort. It is a city within a city, with the medieval “citta alta” (pronounced cheetah) perched high above the surrounding city on a rocky crag, protected by imposing stone walls that are 30 to 50 feet tall. The old town is home to University of Bergamo, and the student presence brings a surprising energy to this otherwise quiet, ancient place. Two amazing churches (side by side!), lovely piazza, and an old fort were all there to explore. The highlight was lunch in Café del Tasso, which has been in that location and serving food since 1476!
Late in the afternoon we moved on toward the city of Romeo and Juliet fame: Verona. This turned out to be yet another fabulous, totally surprising jewel, bustling with activity when we arrived near sunset. You enter the old town through a large piazza which is dominated by a Roman amphitheater. This mini-coliseum could originally seat 25,000 people, and is now used as a venue for modern day music performance. A bit deeper in the city is another piazza, surrounded by buildings from the 12th to 15th centuries, many with beautiful frescoed walls looking down onto the lively market area. Like Bergamo, there were few cars, so we filled the late evening with strolling around the streets, reading the tour guides, taking photos, then a late dinner before calling it a day.
The morning view across the lake. Do we have to leave??
This is the main piazza in Bergamo and the hub of the citta alta. Many of the old buildings are now part of the university. Our lunch cafe was just off the left side of the image and the two churches are on the other side of the bell tower.
The next images are from the interiors of two churches which are, at most, 40 yards apart from each other. The predomiately white interior church is on the left in the photo, the more highly decorated church is entered through the arch in the center of the frame. The ornate structure on the right is a mausoleum and no photos were allowed inside.
This is the left hand church with an 18 century baroque designed interior.
The right hand church, the Basilica of St Mary, dates to the 12 century but the interior was “remodelled” in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. If you like tapestries this is the place to go.
Laura has always described the churches in Italy as being like Faberge eggs. Sometmes the exteriors are grandiose, sometimes not so much. But as you open the typical small humble wooden doors you are never sure, and often completely overcome by the beauty and decoration of the interiors. Both of these churches live up to her description.
Bronze gate ornamentation.
Successive door openings descend a steep street.
Serving great food for over 500 years!
Did I mention we had pizza at lunch? Quit drooling on your keyboard! It is not good for the electronics.
Almost forgot the ravioli with sage butter and sprinkles of raw sugar on it. Sorry. I will try to be more thoughtful.
At the top of town along the walls of the Rocca, or fortress, which has been a strategic strong point for over 700 years.
Not certain what this is but I like the color.
Italy truly is the land of potted flowers.
My taste buds have taken over my brain. It’s hopeless. I see things like this and my head says “kill them. Eat them all!!!”
I confess. This is not my photo. I stole it from the net. There were way too many people to get a nice shot so I passed. This is the Roman era amphitheater in Verona.
This is the Piazza delle Erbe in Verona which was alive with a central market, sidewalk cafes, and pedestrians strolling.
The second story terrace walls were highly decorated with frescoes all along the piazza.
Verona’s quiet side streets. Here is where we start to look for a place to eat.
The model for the porch at the next house!
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Cafe window still life.
OMG do y’all have any idea where y’all were??? The setting of Romeo and Juliet! 😀 Y’all should totally check out Mantua just for fun ;P
Heck yea, we knew! I made Michael recite love sonnets from below our hotel balcony!