Saturday, 17 November 2012

We decided to just kick around on Saturday and look into a bit more of the back roads surrounding Montepulciano.  I left early in the morning and headed east into the rising sun trying to find a good vantage point to photograph the morning sunlight on the eastern exposure of Montepulciano high on its cliff setting.  Short of some serious trespassing this was not going to happen.  So I settled for some back road cruising and vineyard sightseeing.  The morning reminded me of many fall mornings as a child when I heard the sound of hunting in the fields and tree lines.  Hounds were singing and the whistles of their handlers echoed across the landscape.  Occasionally the sound of shotgun could be heard and I thought of the times I spent with my dad, grandfather, and uncles.  I would have loved to accompany these men in the field and take in the experience from the Italian point of view just for comparison.

We went int town and Laura had a manicure while I poked into the main church and discovered a few wine shops with deep cellars cut into the rock below the town.  The time schedule is marked for a serious return trip with our wine glasses in hand!    The afternoon was running late and since sunset is just a few minute before 5 here we decide to take an exploratory walk to the west to check the feasibility of a cross valley hike to the next hill town for the next day.

.

.

.

There are many abandoned old farm houses in the country side.

.

.

.

Some of the locals take in the early afternoon sun.

Roses at the main altar in the the cathedral in Montepulciano.

A courtyard well.

There is no end to the scenery.

In case you need directions just follow the signs.

The road back to the apartment after the exploratory walk.

Friday, 16 November 2012

San Quirico d’ Orcia is another small village just to the west of us about 20 miles.  It is a short drive through some of the same roads we have been traveling for the past week on our travels in that direction.  The town has a couple of small, quaint churches, a token palazzo (palace) and most importantly LOTS of wine and cheese shops along with some very good restaurants.  I think the town has taken the approach of “if you can’t wow them with art and sculpture…. knock ’em out with food delights!”  Trust me, they do a great job.  It was another glorious sunny day with a cool wind and we did our best to get the sight seeing in before a long lunch and some wine.  We have found it necessary to develop an alternating daily schedule of a large lunch/small dinner day with the opposite the next.

Patterns in the landscape.

.

The Colligeta is the architectural masterpiece of the village and was built during the 8th century.

.

The ancient fortification walls surround the village.

Standard shutter color in town is a bright green.

.

This is a manicured boxwood hedge formal garden that is used as a sculpture display venue during the summer.

The sun pours into a church.

If there is a bit of green space and it has an olive tree on it somebody will be harvesting. This one happened to be in a yard in the village.

The fortification walls have occasional towers which apparently have been transformed into living spaces.

Scenery on the drive home.

.

.

Thursday, November 15, 2012

I got up and was out the door, camera in hand, at 7:00 to take in some of the wonderful morning sun.  It was well worth it.  The last few days have had wonderful early morning light and after yesterday’s drive to Siena I knew where I was headed. To the west of us, just beyond the town of Pienza, the countryside is a jumbled mix of uncultivated wood plots, vineyards losing their yellow and red leaves, freshly plowed ground, and newly germinated winter wheat fields.  I was not disappointed with what I found and met a pro photographer from Milan and chatted a bit with him.  I was ‘home’ by 9:30 and ready for a cappuccino!.

Laura and I decided to take a walk on the dirt roads around the base of the town of Montepulciano.   This took us through a number of vineyards and some olive groves which were busy with harvesting.  We walked past a gentleman picking olives by hand in a tree and about 15 minutes later he and his wife were in their car and pulled up next to us on the narrow two track road.  He explained in his broken English, still much better than my Italian, that we needed a photo of his house??Sure why not?  Never ones to pass up the unknown we followed them back home.  They invited us in and explained the history of the place and the lovely antique furniture.  Then came the sales pitch.  They also had a B&B right next to the house which they ran. We toured the house and complemented them on how nicely it was done and the great views from right below town.  If you want an authentic Italian home to stay in we can point you to it.

Have fun viewing.  Click to enlarge.

.

Laura pretty much summed up the landscape as looking like “giant frozen green ocean swells”

.

.

The fields are still draining the last of the rain from 5 days ago. You really needed to watch your step. Especially without boots.

.

.

The gate to this place was locked and the road was pretty overgrown. I could hang out here for a long time.

The little chapel, sandwiched by trees,  way in the background is a well photographed landmark in the area. If you look through enough photo books of Tuscany you will surely see it.

.

.

.

Just a splash of color.

Authentic Italian!! I really did like the place and the couple were so nice.

Now this is a fire place!!!

I didn’t have the heart to ask if this might be for sale but I sure do like it.

I don’t think I will ever again pour out some olive oil without thinking of the effort I have seen that goes into picking them.

This is the new way to make it quicker and simpler. These are battery run vibrating fingers which vigorously shake the branches to knock the olives off and into the netting below.

Somebody always has to be different. Thanks!  Maybe this is how blended wines come about.

New moon sunset, shot out the window! Talk about being in the the right place at the right time!!!

Wednesday, 14 November 2012

LOTS of photos in this one folks.

We actually set an alarm so we could get an early start and travel the 50 miles or so, northwest to the city of Siena.  The drive was through a magical part of Tuscany that shone in the low morning sunlight.  Valley bottoms were often filled with mist and long shadows ran across the freshly plowed or germinating fields.  I promised myself I would be out early the next day to take advantage of the magic of this terrain.

Wednesday is market day in Sienna and we dutifully took advantage of the sights, sounds, deals, and food that can be found there.  The food area is my favorite venue and the business was brisk and steady.  Laura cruised the clothing stalls and did a little Christmas shopping and picked up a sweater to “ward off the cool wind.”  Yeah right!  We spent a couple hours, and I scored some delicious grilled chicken wings which I have had a few time since we arrived in Lake Como.  Then it was on to discover and explore the heart of the city.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siena

This was actually our second visit to Siena but it has been 10 years since we had spent an abbreviated and rainy day here.  This time the weather, as you can tell, was spectacular.  Our major objective was a visit back to the Duomo or main cathedral.  This is a magnificent church that rivals many in Italy.  It was constructed between 1136 and 1382 and before it was even completed there was a plan, and the beginning of construction, to transform it into the largest church in Christendom.  The plan fell through when the black plague ravaged the population and was further setback after being conquered by their arch rivals from Florence.  Nevertheless it is a masterpiece and we enjoyed coming back to see it.  We also visited the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo which is set in the partially constructed and expanded nave to the right of the original church.  Here you can find much of the original carved statuary which has been removed from the Duomo exterior and preserved from the ravages of deterioration.  We climbed up the dizzying spiral staircase inside the wall and up to the top for an unprecedented look out over the city.  Warning!  If you don’t like narrow confined space do not go here!!  And then there is the 250 foot overview of the city on a ten foot wide walkway with only a waist high rail in front of you!

Climbing backdown to to good old terra firma we wound our way to the heart of the city, Piazza del Campo.  This is the setting of the Palio horse race which takes place twice a year.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palio_di_Siena  November is a much quieter time in the piazza and we chose to have a glass of wine indoors our first gelato in over a week(!!!!)  Then a bit of wandering before finally heading home in the early evening.  The city is large enough that there is quite an evening buzz on the streets with lots of locals out and about.   This is different compared to the smaller towns which get real quiet once the sun sets.  Enjoy.

The tomato man was having a good day and a good time.

Even if you do not like artichokes you have to love the way they look!

I could watch these guys all morning.

It was busy!

The catch of the day was about to be a filet.

How can you not have fun in this place?

The honey man is setting up his “shop.”

There is a lot of socializing that goes on. Even with the big crowds many people know each other.

The fresh, just picked citrus was in and going fast.

Need a new body? We got that!

The new generation gets a very warm welcome.

Clothing galore and lots of people shopping for the cool weather. The sweater and coat stalls were hopping.

What shoppers?? I am just reading the paper.

Fall gardening to go.

A little fresh fish. Can I interest you in some octopus???

More oranges, fast!!!

The hat never moved all morning.

Yeah just one slice will do. Got any LARGE bread??? And 20 packs of mustard?

More fresh fish.

Making some serious lunch decisions here.

This guy with the chicken and prepared calamari, and assorted “fast food” was always busy. I had to wait in line for my chicken wings.

Anybody got an extra 12 mm lens I can borrow??

Seven to eight hundred years old and the stones blocks look like they were cut were a miter saw!! It is amazing. Oh. And then there is all this fantastic art and mosaic floors.

You can’t say enough about candle light.

The main altar.

.

It is not a funky camera angle the dome is actually asymmetric.

And because you can’t tell the players without a program there is a lineup of former popes that runs the length of the main aisle on both sides.

The Piccolomini Library which contains unbelievable illuminated transcripts and these frescoes by Pinturicchio done in 1509. This guy was a master of perspective because that is a flat wall and all the “arches” are fake.

Proof that too much sun is bad for you. This is one of the original, and now removed, sculptures that had decorated the exterior of the Duomo.  Modern copies are in place of them.

.

.

.

Everybody needs a reliquary with the local saint’s head preserved in it. I guess?

Time for a vertical hike. Notice how MUCH taller this wall is than the car at the base? See you at the top.

Nice wide staircase. Staying to the outside is essential. You get to know oncoming traffic real well.

The view is worth it. And so much more rewarding than buying a post card.

Looking down on Siena.

The Piazza del Campo from the top.

The piazza del Campo from the bottom.

I am not certain where the pomegranate and olive oil party was but these guys were heading there.

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire…. Come on join in… You know the words

Hey you. My master is sitting here playing the accordion for you. Put some coinage in the box. Please???

.

.

The canine photos have piled up and  I really need to put up another post of “man’s best friend” before  I get hopelessly behind. This groups starts from just before we got to Sicily, one on the ferry crossing over, and then until about half way through our stay there. It should be obvious by now that the half colored face look is quite popular here and that the vast majority of pooches are on the small side.

I only wish I could hear everyone’s reactions as you view them.  Have fun!

This dog just has to have a split personality also!

This guy cracked me up. He would then just go into a store as if no big deal.  And the dogs were amazingly well behaved.

Making sure that fluff ball doesn’t decide to go swimming while the ferry crosses from the mainland to Sicily.

Nothing fancy just pure lovable.

Have you ever wondered what the world looks like while a dog shakes itself?? And, that he can do it while walking. You try walking down the sidewalk while you shake your head from side to side. Five buck says you end up on the lawn!!

This guy…. just the cutest “how can you not love me” face I have ever seen. He sat next to our table during lunch one day. Never bothered us. Just kept us company.

Yeah Mr Tough Guy got all worked up and was growling at a pigeon of all things that was ten feet from him. Go Killer!

This little puppy is definitely not going to stay little.

I am not sure where this guy found the rib bones but he was working them over pretty good. His day started out very well.

In the spirit of the election season, and with all precincts fully reporting and the recounts done the mice have overwhelmingly decided that the cats have to be locked up.  Behind bars they go!!!

Call this “Italian Cats Due”

That old “Who me??” innocent look.

From the inside looking out.  Pssst!!!!

Must be friends of the warden. Got flowers and a window seat.

Ran out ‘behind bars” photos.

This cool cat was taking full advantage of a freshly parked car and the warm hood.

Are you legs REALLY that short???

Maybe it is a whole new undiscovered species?? Felix shortimus.

For a one eyed cat he, or she, (didn’t try to check) was looking pretty good.

Like the dog, cat, and bicycle bell theme posts this one is all about a single subject.  The images are compiled from many of the days and places we have been to so far.  The only order is a progression of time from early to present.

You are surrounded by walls in Italy.  Everywhere you look there is some sort of wall.  It may be closing you in on a 5 foot wide street or lining the sides of the roads as you turn through switchbacks up or down a steep road.  The color and condition cover the range from pristine to weathered and beaten by time or misuse.  I tend to be drawn to photographing the weathered ones.

The ivy has been clear off.   But it has left its mark.

  I am not sure who or what was suppose to “move” from this spot.

We pay big dollars to try to replicate this sort of texture and color variation back home.

This is actually a portion of a silver oxidized mirror which made up a good portion of a wall. That was good enough for me.

An argument in spray paint.

.

.

All of the ivy was cut off at the ground and up as high as who ever could reach.

This building corner has had many encounters with slightly too wide vehicles.

.

The chisel marks are clearly evident in this stone.

This looks like the top of my cappuccino in the morning.

Shades of grey.

Wouldn’t you know it.  The third day we are in Multepulciano there is food and wine tasting fair along one of the streets in town.  Since most of the tourists are gone you could actually talk to the venders and taste and drink without interruption.  Nothing like getting really lucky.  We actually held out until noon before hitting the wines.  When we finally left at 4 in the afternoon we had 8 bottles of wine, some bread, honey, and meats.  So even though it is blowing and raining outside today  (Sunday) we will make it through the day.  Enjoy the photos and try not to drool.

Starting the day with something sweet.

When the clock strikes the hour the lower arm moves and rings the required number of tolls from the bell.

Red Hot Chili Peppers…live

Nothing but temptation where ever you look.

A happy little camper.

I am not sure if the light was actually on or if the glow was caused by the sunlight.

Heck yeah we tasted and tested the prosciutto!!!

This guy was selling fresh roasted chestnuts picked off the grill and served in the paper cone.

Wood grilled bruschetta coming right up!

.

.

Even the lichens on the trees get into the fall color act.

We were on the road again early Thursday morning, this time shifting our base from Italy’s south lands to a hill town in Tuscany called Montepulciano.  We had crisp temperatures, but sunshine and blue skies for the drive, and as we entered the beautiful Tuscan landscape north of Rome, we were once again enchanted. The rolling geometry of vineyards and fields freshly sprouting with winter wheat; just enough fall color to thrill these two former Michiganders (bright gold poplar, orange and even some burgundy grape leaves).  Of course, also the many castles and hill towns crowning the topography, lit by afternoon sunshine. This is a special place indeed.

Our first apartment here is part of a property called Montorio. The building is said to have been constructed in the 1300’s as a convent, but  it was completely renovated and broken into apartments in the 1990’s. Our unit has beautiful views of the hills, and is only a short (but steep!) walk up to the town of Montepulciano. The kitchen is tiny (a bit of floor 2.5 x 4.5 with counter, mini stove and sink in a u-shape plus a mini fridge on one end). I had specifically asked for the apartment with the fireplace, and we do have one, but the fact that it wasn’t functional was not mentioned ahead of time! Still, all else is lovely and the heaters are awesome. We have an appointment to look at one other apartment on Saturday—this one up in the town, just to make sure we know our options.

We gathered groceries and a few supplies this morning, first at the market in a nearby town called Pienza, and then at our local supermarket. In the afternoon we attempted the hike into town and found it, um, aerobic, but fun. That said, we were pleased to learn that city parking is now free, being off season, so we do have the option of driving up that hill. Town was surprisingly quiet…tourist season is definitely over and many of the hotels and restaurants were closed, but the one we found was warm and buzzing with conversation.

Lunch menu for Laura: Tuscan Bean Soup… in Tuscany!

It took 6 hours of cruising down the autostrad on a glorious sunny day to go from Matera to Montepluciano in the Tuscany. This will be “home” for the next 4 weeks.

This is the second time I have posted this church. It is 350 yards from our apartment and at a slightly lower elevation. Both are just outside the town of Montepulciano.

We arrived at the apartment with a couple of hours of daylight left. Just enough time to unload the car, snap a few photos, and watch the sun set. Tuscany is  welcoming us very nicely.

The fall colors will never rival a northern Michigan or New England forest but for those of us who have lived in Houston for over 30 years they are a wonderful treat.

Not too shabby!!

Here it is. Visual proof that we do not drink the entire bottle of wine all the time. We actually took some home after lunch.

The grapes are long gone and in the barrels by now most likely. But the rows of vines are putting on a gorgeous display.

It is the height of the olive harvest right now in Italy. Millions of square feet of netting is laid on the ground beneath the trees across the country and the branches are shook by various mechanical means. The fallen olives are then gathered up.

This is the walkway which leads from the apartment up into town.

They don’t call them hill towns for nothing. Our apartment is located in the last building at the right edge. The pictured church is in the center.

The country side is now planted in winter wheat which has germinated covering the ground in a soft green carpet.

In the country side between Montepulciano and Pienza.