Wednesday, 21 November 2012
The Italian weather gods continue to just knock it out of the park! Today was beyond perfect!! In the mid 50’s, just a slight breeze and nonstop sunshine all day. This was planned to be a visit to a formal garden and little towns, or paesino, in Italian. Anybody can do the major sights but we tend to like the back roads. With map in hand off we ventured.
First stop was Monticchiello. An absolute post card of a town about 6 miles away. We parked just outside the wall and walked into a small piazza with a war memorial statue off to one side. An elderly lady was cleaning the fallen leaves out of the hedge bordering the statue and sweeping them into neat small piles. Just beyond there was a sweater shop open, and the gentleman proprietor was an amateur opera singer. After a bit of color comparison and modeling, another grey sweater joined Laura’s collection. In town we discovered several colorful doors, a Fiat, scooter, and numerous manicured houses. After about an hour it was time to continue the day.
We had been told that the formal gardens at “la Foce” were not to be missed, but that they were only open on Wednesday afternoons this time of year. Not a problem. Our timing was working well. We arrived at 1 and could not find anyone around. But, the gates were unlocked. Assuming this was a dose of Italian hospitality we decided to give ourselves a garden tour. The descriptions did not lie. Even though it was fall and blossoms were definitely in short supply, the gardens are exquisite. Boxwood hedges that appear to have been manicured with a laser form the largest expanse. Beyond, are beds of roses and a 50 yard long pergola that is covered with wisteria that has main trunks which are a foot in diameter. They must be stunning in the spring when they are in full bloom. After approximately an hour a gardener caught our attention and asked if we had permission to be there. Ummmm, no. We were informed that the guided tours would start in 45 minutes and where we could buy tickets. Trespass number one. We had seen anough and had been the only people in the place. It could only go down hill from here. http://www.montepulciano.net/la_foce_iris_origo.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjvtNdis-2c
Time to get back to the drive. The area is surrounded by a nature park and the road was empty except for us. The next place that caught our eye, and the brake pedal, was an olive grove and oil manufacturing facility. Get all thoughts of industrial out of your mind. Replace it with post card Tuscany. We parked in the designated area where there were other cars. Following the rules this time. Looked all over for someone to show us around but had no luck. Sooooo.. Trespass number two. Things were going quite well until I saw and heard two rather large dogs coming across the lawn barking. Oh this could end badly. Nice doggy??? Oh yeah they were. Still nobody showed up. A few more photos and we decided to keep moving.
The road did not get any better. Signs advising of 15% grade for the next 2 kilometers. Not a problem. At least the road was on the map. Onward we went and came upon Castiglioncello di Trinoro. This teeny tiny place has been inhabited off an on since 400 or 500 BC! The whole place is about 200 yards long and 80 yards wide. We have found out that the entire town has been purchased by someone in Cincinnati who is redeveloping and restoring it, which was obvious during our visit. There was one group of three guys mixing cement and rebuilding a stone wall. A small hotel was been configured and a pool with views that extend for miles was completed. BUT, you better like your peace and quiet once you get here. Onward. http://monteverdituscany.com/
As we drove down the deserted road I looked over to the left into the middle of a field and spotted a couple of abandoned buildings. Hit the brakes and grab the camera! But it sure would be better if I were a bit closer. Look left and right. Over the fence I go. Trespass number 3. Well worth it though. Sometimes you just have to. Besides there were no signs that said I couldn’t!!
Back in the car we headed a bit further south to the town of Radicofani at the foot of an oddly shaped hill that is visible for miles around. The imposing fortress built above town was closed so we decided to take a pass on yet another major uphill hike so late in the day. The construction in town had a very unique look to it because the major building material was grey and black stone block interspersed with red brick. A closer look showed that the stone was all volcanic in origin which then explained the rather large conical shaped mountain we could see a few miles away. Volcano!! We finished the day with a couple glasses of wine in a local establishment which meant commenting on the baby in the stroller in the place and Laura conversing, in Italian, with the grandma who came downstairs for a few minutes. Too much fun.
Enjoy.
The lady cleaning leaves is on the far left with the red scarf.
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When we get home our grapevine is coming out of the pot and going in the ground.
Nice rosemary crop.
These will definitely will not be needed today.
It would have been a perfect day for a long bike ride.
I don’t know where this guy found the color. But no problem finding his house in town.
Which came first??
I could put 8 of these in my garage at home.
On to la Foce gardens.
Every good garden needs a tool shed.
Right next door to a cool old house.
How do they trim them that straight??? Maybe I need to watch that video link.
I guess croquet is out of the question?
Pretty classy.
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Wisteria. Enough to make you want to come back in May.
Classic Tuscany.
Olive oil “factory”. Pretty cool place.
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I am just going to keep shooting stuff like this until all the leaves fall. Sorry.
Buy a small town and fix it up Everybody is doing it!!
Google Earth view of the village. The yellow line is 200 meters long.
Quiet. Real quiet.
Trespass #3.
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Down to Radicofani to end the day.
The cat on a hot tin roof had it easy compared to this guy!
This town had a totally different look to it.
No day is complete without a stop in a church.
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